Silicones Have Their Place in Skincare19 May 2020
African Oils Part 119 October 2020
Dandruff affects about half of the adult population. It usually peaks in severity around age 20 and becomes less prevalent above age 50. At best it can be irritating and embarrassing. At worst it can be painful and can even lead to hair loss. This is because healthy hair growth is closely linked to scalp health.
Contrary to common believe, dandruff is not due to a dry scalp but rather a result of an oily scalp. A dry scalp is the least severe of the possible scalp concerns. Flakes from dry skin are smaller and less oily than those associated with chronic scalp conditions. A dry scalp is unlikely to develop redness or inflammation. Dry skin is also generally more noticeable on other areas of the body, not the scalp.
An oily skin or scalp leads to dandruff. Malassezia, a fungus found on the skin of most people, loves the oil or sebum skin produces and thrives on it. Excessive oil production can lead to a more severe form of dandruff called Seborrheic Dermatitis.
Dandruff is also not due to poor hygiene, however, our modern day lifestyles may be partly to blame for the demand for anti-dandruff products.
According to leading supplier to the cosmetics and personal care industry, BASF who recently launched ScalposineTM, an amino acid derivative which is able to purify the scalp and to reset its microbial ecosystem, stress, pollution and haircare products are sometimes to blame for scalp issues. They contribute to flaking, itching and greasy aspect of the hair.
Urban lifestyles create a triple asphyxia on the scalp as a result of:
- Dust and pollution
- Sebum over production
- Overuse of cosmetics products
All of these create deposits, which effectively ‘suffocate’ the scalp and negatively affect its microbiome.
Effective cleansing through regular shampooing and the use of hair treatment masks through can help address the problem.
Common ingredients in anti-dandruff shampoos include Salicylic Acid, Coal Tar, Zinc Pyrithione, Ketoconazole and Selenium Sulfide. These all have different actions on the various issues associated with dandruff. Salicylic acid removes scales and scalp build up; Coal Tar slows the production of skin cells, reducing redness, inflammation, and irritation; Zinc Pyrithione is an antifungal and targets dead skin cells and Ketoconazole is a fungicide that treats yeast infections on the scalp. Selenium Sulfide targets yeast infection on the scalp.
None of these, however, address the balance of the microbiome of the scalp – that is ecosystem of microbiota which exist on the scalp. The balance of this system is critical to the overall health of the scalp.
In developing ScalposineTM, BASF, identified 6 beneficial strains of microbiota needed for a normal scalp and which contribute to overall scalp health. Any disturbance of the bacterial ecology of the scalp creates an unhealthy scalp. ScalposineTM helps reset the scalp microbiome improving its overall health.
- An immediate soothing effect
- Rebalances oily scalp
- Purifies the scalp to reduce flaking
- Healthy hair transformation
- Reduction in shampoo frequency
New ingredients like ScalposineTM have created an opportunity for manufacturers to create products that care for the scalp producing longer term results rather than simply addressing the symptoms.
Contact Botanichem for information on formulating with Scalposine and other ingredients for hair and scalp solutions.